Canon has announced the EOS 80D camera, the EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM lens, and the PowerShot G7 X Mark II point-and-shoot.
The EOS 80D features a 24.2MP APS-C CMOS sensor and DIGIC 6 image processor, and is capable of up to 7 fps and Full HD 1080p60 video. Also impressive is a new 45-point AF system, and as expected, Canon has kept the dual-pixel AF system that was introduced with the EOS 70D.
The EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM uses a new “NANO USM” technology that supposedly combines USM and STM. The only thing of note for this lens is it can be used with a PZ-E1 Power Zoom Adapter to enable power zoom for video or remote shooting applications.
Most items are available for pre-order with a first shipment in mid-April.
- Canon EOS 80D pre-order for $1199.00 at B&H, Adorama, Amazon
- Canon EOS 80D with 18-55mm Kit pre-order for $1349.00 at B&H, Adorama, Amazon
- Canon EOS 80D with 18-135 IS USM Kit pre-order for $1799.00 at B&H, Adorama, Amazon
- Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM pre-order for $599.00 at B&H, Adorama, Amazon
- Canon PZ-E1 Power Zoom Adapter pre-order for $149.00 at B&H, Adorama, Amazon
- Canon PowerShot G7 X Mark II is $699 but not yet available to pre-order.
Don’t need the adapter! I have the 35-80mm PZ!
It’s a new version of DPAF. It’s edge to edge/corner to corner (so it covers more than the 80% of the frame that the 70D DPAF covered) and it’s apparently substantially faster and more refined than in the 70D. …in case anyone is interested.
In fact, DPR’s first impressions were that it tracks just as well as the best mirrorless cameras.
Darn my 40d’s are old. Haha
My 7200 can do all this. Big deal Canon
Get a good lens and the body doesn’t mean shit
So much for you to learn Mark. There are differences in body capabilities.
I’m sure I know more than most
Markjamesphotography.com. 90% of that is shot on a T1i with a Sigma Art lens, so have a look and say that again 🙂
I also own a 6d, so I have both worlds, the 6d is only better with in the fact that is has much larger viewfinder, and is better with higher iso. Other than that Id put money I could outshoot you with a shitty camera and a nice lens
I’m not talking about specs on a list, I’m talking real world use.
Camera bodies used to have a huge influence on quality, not so much anymore
Go out and try your hand at dark sky star shooting with your T1i and see how that goes. That’s what I mostly shoot.
Was just gonna say, I was looking at your night shots, and I could easily beat that with my t1i and 14mm 2.8. High iso doesn’t make those shots
Go into any respectable camera store or forum, and tell them camera bodies are more important than lenses, you’ll be laughed out.
Btw, I agree with you about lenses. They make a huge difference. But newer bodies generally have better higher iso capabilities. 40d’s are not my latest bodies but they don’t do bad at all.
Bodies can make a huge difference if you are a diverse photographer… Higher Dynamic Range, faster Focusing Systems, accurate and flexible Metering Systems, more FPS, more accurate Color Rendition, High ISO management, higher MP’s, the list goes on and on… Yes, these “specs” will make real world differences in the final image.
Couple a great body with a great lens and you are money ahead…
A diverse photographer with a shit camera and a high quality lens, will outshoot a diverse photographer with a good body and shot lens
I own a t2i and the 6d and the 6d is hands down a better camera than a rebel but if you know what your doing the body doesn’ matter as much it also depends on what style of photography you do I wouldnt do event photography with a rebel in low light or weddings. For regular portraits a good lens and knowledge of lighting a rebel works just fine
You can make amazing images with a cheap kit lens if you know what your doing
Kurt Scherbaum your type of photography yes, the 1D, or whatever Nikon equivalent makes a different as you obviously use extremely high shutter speeds and dos, but as far as color, and dynamic range, that can all be smashed in post, focus speed is generally affected by the lens, as far as I’m concerned you only need one focus point to get the shot as well
Correct, high iso doesn’t make those shots but iso 800 on a 7D is cleaner than iso 800 on a T1i.
(By the way I hope this is being taken as a conversation and not an argument)
Anything past 400iso is shit on the T1i, but the camera will still kill it will a good lens if shot right. Don’t get me wrong, I love being able to cleanly use iso 5000 on my 6d, but I also feel it has made me not think so much about my light as I did when I used the T1i
We’re good. Just a good conversation.
I pretty much shoot macro and dark sky. That’s about it.
I still shoot some macro with my Olympus E1’s and the 35 and 50 macro lenses. The E1 came out in 2004. In good light and still macros, it can surprise you on image quality.
My Canon gear consist of 40d, 7d, efs 10-22, 50 f2.5, 100 f2.8, 70-200 F4 L but I seldom use it. Soon to join in will be the Rokinon 14 f2.8.
Not an argument at all Mark but you cannot extract DR in post, if you can’t capture it in camera it’s not possible to extract. You can’t shoot fast moving erratic subjects with a single point either, especially with a 600mm lens. You need a much better focusing system. BTW I shoot everything from motorsports to landscapes, to birds in flight, astrophotography, etc… Not one body can do it all but one good body can do a good percentage of it.
Mirrorless is a field I want to try … High speed sync on the Olympus right?
Kurt Scherbaum this is where the difference lies, I typically only shoot portraits, slow and still, I shoot for flat even lighting/contrast, and dodge and burn almost everything. In my world all I need is one focus point and a good lens to catch details.